Welcome to the northernmost city in the world, Hammerfest, Norway! For most people, just getting to the remote Arctic Circle is an adventure. This was definitely the case for me. As an Acupuncturist-at-Sea, I travelled to Hammerfest and embarked on my cruise ship with Holland America Cruise Line. I arrived on a sunny, summer day at 70 degrees with one day to explore. Overall, I enjoyed solo my Hammerfest Norway walking tour. Here’s my adventure story and tips on how to get there and explore this one-of-a-kind Norwegian port.
The Hammerfest northern lights became famous by the travel writer, Bill Bryson. In his book Neither Here Nor There he refers to Hammerfest as, “an agreeable enough town in a thank-you-God-for-not-making-me-live-here sort of way”. In contrast, for me being there in summer, my thoughts lit up with the idea, that I could live here for a while. However, I probably would agree with Bill Bryon during the wintertime.
About Hammerfest, Norway
The Hammerfest claim as northernmost city in the world depends on your definition of city. About 10,000 inhabitants live in Hammerfest. The nearby Honningsvag, Norway is actually slightly more north, however, it has less than 2,000 people and isn’t considered a city. Regardless, Hammerfest lies in the Arctic Circle at 70.66 degrees N. The Sami people are the natives of northern Norway, known for their close connection to nature and reindeers.
The Hammerfest municipality lies on the mainland with 3 large islands: Soroya, Seiland and Kvaloya. Also, the city spreads on smaller islands, such as, Kamoya and Little Kamoya. Hammerfest is named after “hammer” or large rocks in Old Norse, used for mooring the boats. “Fest” means fasten (for boats).
The climate of Hammerfest is subarctic with no permafrost. It’s surprisingly warm for being so north due to the Gulf Stream. This warm current of water flows north from the Caribbean, keeping Norwegian coastal waters about 20 degrees warmer than places at the same latitude in other parts of the world. However, Hammerfest gets heavy snowfall in the winter and is often at risk for avalanches. The midnight sun happens here from May 14 to July 31. In contrast, the polar night lasts from November 23 to January 19.
How to Get to Hammerfest, Norway in the Arctic Circle
There are 3 main ways to arrive in Hammerfest. I researched them all and decided on flying. I flew to Tromso on Scandinavian Airways. Then, I took a small propellor plane with Wideroe Airlines, carrying about 40 passengers to Hammerfest. Being a nervous flyer, I surprisingly enjoyed the most beautiful and serene flights of my life over Norway.
The weather remained clear and calm for breathtaking views of the fjords. Another option is a public bus from Tromso taking about 9 hours. The most scenic route is by sea on the Hurtigruten. This vessel is a large cruise ship that goes along the Norwegian coast through the fjords.
Check out my Youtube Video on Hammerfest!
My Half-Day Hammerfest Norway Walking Tour
My walking tour began from my accommodations at the Smart Hotel on the waterfront. With little research, my plan included walking the waterfront and taking the zigzag trail to the top of Salen Mountain for a panoramic view. At 2 pm I headed toward the Town Hall Square along the waterfront. The day was perfect with clear skies, no wind and a mild 70 degrees. It was Sunday, so I discovered many of the restaurants and museums were closed. I just wanted to be outside, anyway.
Town Hall Square is a great spot to start a walking tour!
After sitting on a bench soaking up sun on the waterfront, I meandered 5 minutes to the popular Town Hall Square. It bustled with energy from the sun-infused locals, children on bicycles and food trucks. I took my photo op at the Town Hall in front of the Hammerfest sculpture with polar bears.
Near the Town Hall is the popular “Fountain Mother and Children.” The sculpture fountain displays a mother surrounded by her four children. An American Ambassador donated the fountain, symbolizing his mother and children originally from Hammerfest.
I observed racial diversity and discovered that many immigrants move to Hammerfest for work. Also, I found the locals very friendly!
A man from Syria waved at my GoPro for a friendly interview, introducing me to his family. He moved to Hammerfest for work. Later a young boy on a bike approached me from Morrocco. His family moved here, so his dad could work as a taxi driver. Overall, I enjoyed the locals as very friendly spotting me right away as a tourist to chat. Many approached me curiously, “Where are you from?”
Next, I headed for Zigzag Trail to Salen Mountain Viewpoint
I took the stairs on the left (facing fountain) of the popular Fountain Mother and Children. Then, I crossed the street and walked by the bright blue Music Pavilion or Gazebo. It commemorated the 200-year anniversary on the establishment of Hammerfest in 1779. Then, I continued up the stairs to the sign for Sikksakkveien or Zigzag Trail. Here, I noticed another sign for Gammelveien or The Old Road. Gammelveien is 2.8-mile loop trail, signposted throughout town and on top of Salen Mountain. It’s used as a walking or biking path with fantastic views of Soroysund.
The steep Zigzag Trail is about a 10-to-15-minute climb and part of Gammelveien. On a clear day this is the best thing to do for visitors. Being up there offers great perspective and breathtaking views. From there, I continued walking toward the Turistua Restaurant. Because it was Sunday, the restaurant was closed. It looked wonderful with indoor/outdoor seating facing the view below.
Nearby, I stopped at Mikkelgammen, also closed due to it being Sunday. However, I still observed up close the grassy roofed buildings that looked akin to Norwegian heritage. Mikkelgammen is a place to discover and experience the Sami Culture relating to the native people of northern Norway. For example, you can taste Sami food, like reindeer meat and cloudberry jam.
A local gave me directions on walking the Old Road Loop on Salen Mountain. The path circles on top of the mountain, then descends back into town.
Excitedly, I took the local’s directions and followed the green signs saying Gammelveien, meaning The Old Road. It took about 45 minutes to walk the loop. Overall, I discovered many incredible viewpoints and trails. Many other trails branch from Old Road to unique sites. I passed by reindeer dung. Evidently, reindeer live on Salen Mountain. Furthermore, a local said she recently saw a mother reindeer with 2 calves. Later, I read that reindeer herds migrate from the winter inland pastures to the coast in the summer. Sorry that I didn’t see any reindeers!
Making the final stretch down the mountain on the trail, the harbor and town were back in view. I walked down the busy Kirkegata Street toward the city center. I walked past the Museum of Reconstruction. This museum showcases the reconstruction of Hammerfest after it became demolished in WW 2. Next, I walked by the pyramid-shaped Hammerfest Church. Also, right next door to the church, I spotted 2 trolls mischievously standing in a front yard.
Lastly, I made it back to the QA Restaurant on the waterfront. Two locals recommended this restaurant to me. It’s located on the Town Hall Square with indoor/outdoor seating near the water. They offer a general menu with a good selection of seafood, sandwiches, Norwegian cuisine, beers and wines. I enjoyed my QA burger and fries with a Carlsberg Beer. Cheers to Hammerfest!
Other Places to See in Hammerfest that I Missed:
Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society
Struve Geodetic Arc (World Heritage List)
Daily Boat Rides to North Cape or Nordkapp
(I went there before when in Norway – don’t miss it!)
Where to Stay and Eat in Hammerfest
Smarthotel Hammerfest – This is where I stayed and loved everything about it! I would recommend it to anyone! The rooms are efficient, clean, smart and small. My single room was about $110 and even had a view of the waterfront. The Norwegian breakfast buffet is included and spectacular with fresh fruits, breads, yogurts, cheeses, pastries, eggs, and meat.
Scandic Hotel – This is another good, comfortable option close to the water and city center. It also offers food and drinks.
Restaurants and Food Trucks
Hammerfest Norway Walking Tour
QA Restaurant – I loved my dinner for both food and ambiance here. My outdoor seating near the water and Town Hall Square was perfect. They offer a varied menu with seafood, sandwiches, Norwegian cuisine and burgers.
Food Trucks at Town Hall Square – I observed an Asian food truck with dishes, such as, pad thai and wontons. Also, there is a Middle Eastern truck with food like falafels, kebabs & dolmas.
Turistua Restaurant – On top of Salen Mountain, this restaurant has indoor/outdoor seating with panoramic views of the city and waterfront below.
Other recommendations that I didn’t try include Sakaya Asian Cooking and Burger OG Grill.
Enjoy Hammerfest, Norway!
Whether you are going to see the Northern Lights in the winter or the midnight sun in the summer, Hammerfest is a unique adventure! You can experience things here that you can nowhere else. Plus, the locals are so friendly! After spending a day on my Hammerfest Norway walking tour, it felt like an adventure of a lifetime. Please leave your comments below. Let me know any recommendations you have on how to most enjoy amazing Hammerfest.
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