Cruising New Zealand’s Spectacular Fiordland

by Trudy Wendelin, L.Ac
Fiordland New Zealand

Cruising New Zealand’s Fiordland through labyrinthine passages is a leisurely, breathtaking way to experience the magnificence of Mother Nature. I was told once that the 3 most beautiful fjords in the world are in New Zealand, Norway and Chile. I’ve been fortunate to experience all of them! So read on to learn about why New Zealand’s Fiordland is home to some of the most beautiful fiords in the world.

How many people can say they cruised through New Zealand’s Fiordland more than 15 times? Well, I can as an Acupuncturist-at-Sea, working on cruise ships. Our scenic itineraries included cruising Down Under from Sydney, Australia, crossing the Tasman Sea and circumnavigating New Zealand’s eastern coastline. Lastly, the Grand Finale included cruising Fiordland National Park on the South Island’s southwestern corner. However, getting there was not always smooth sailing, as the Tasman Sea is considered one of the roughest seas in the world. Because it’s located on latitudes of the “Roaring 40’s,” the strong westerly winds roar across the sea. Nonetheless, crossing the Tasman Sea is always an adventure.

Fiordland National Park Background

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Glaciers sculpted New Zealand’s Fiordland more than 550 million years ago, when it was a part of the ancient supercontinent, Gondwana. Overall, this supercontinent included Australia, Africa, India, Antarctica, Zealandia and South America. Contemplating this, gives me chills and puts into perspective the mystery and enchantment of this ancient part of the world.

Aotearoa – “Land of the Long White Cloud”

Fiordland National Park, a World Heritage Site, is insular and pristine in its remote setting. Each cruise was unique, due to the variability in weather, creating diverse scenarios from which to experience this natural gem. The climate is very wet, receiving 6,300 mm of rainfall per year. The most common Maori name for New Zealand is Aotearoa, translated as “Land of the Long White Cloud.” Moreover, there are many opportunities to see the exquisite cloudscapes above and reflected below on the water throughout the fiords.

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The ecology is fascinating with temperate forests and diverse habitats, including many endemic plants due to its isolation on the southwest corner of New Zealand. Common trees are the silver beech in the fiords and red beech inland. Overall, this ecosystem consists of 14 fiords (misnamed as Sounds). The breathtaking views are embraced by the snow-capped Southern Alps, with steep valleys filled by the ocean waters.

The granite peaks were carved out by glaciers over a period of 100,000 years. The Maori believed that a giant stonemason hoed out the steep sided valleys with an adze. Additionally, Fiordland National Park is renowned for its tramping (NZ word for hiking) paths. The Routeburn Trail winds through this park and has been rated by Lonely Planet as one of the World’s Top 10 Treks.

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Cruising New Zealand’s Fiordland

Our mazy paths navigated us through Milford, Dusky and Doubtful Fiords. When the skies were clear, I had a very lucid experience. Then the details and nuances of the sculpted rock formations and waterways reveal themselves. Steep canyon walls guided us through a water labyrinth with awesome views. One moment you may be seeing bright blue skies and sparkling waters. Then suddenly you may hear and see a waterfall dramatically plummet from a high precipice.

Related: New Zealand’s Dramatic White Island Cruise in Bay of Plenty

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Overall, the beauty from the granite heights of snow-capped mountains, intermixed with briny-alpine air is exhilarating to all the senses. There lingers a suspense as to what will be experienced around the bend in the secret chambers as you wind throughout the inlet. The element of surprise is everywhere, breaking through any shrouds of expectation. I learned quickly to just let go and let nature guide me, with no attachment or expectation.

Cruising Milford Sound
New Zealand’s Fiordland

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Milford Sound is the most famous in Fiordland and was described by the writer, Rudyard Kipling as the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” There is a unique, lonely feeling, that I experienced at Milford Fiord on a sunny day: The winds of deep silence resonate throughout your bones, quieting the mind into a natural, meditative state. It uncannily felt as though I was riding the crest of a silent wave, with suspense of impending sound that could break the wave any moment. The intense serenity quiets the ego, into realms of wordless bliss, that are strangely lonely in a good way.

The other 2 sounds are just as stunning. Doubtful Sound’s name is due to its more inaccessible location deep inside the granite walls. My most memorable cruise through Dusky Fiord, I experienced as the name implies. Its skies were dusky, even though it was early morning instead of dusk. Overall, there was a subtle twilight, diffused with damask skies’ violet and pink undertones. The moon was setting into the sea. As we cruised, the skies began to cloud up with soft, billowy shrouds that clearly reflected back from the calm sea.

Maori’s called Fiordland
“Ata Whenua” or Shadowlands

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Ata Whenua or Shadowlands
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The Maori called Fiordland “Ata Whenua” or Shadowlands. On a rainy day, this name comes into being with a mysterious darkness. Within an hour after rain, ubiquitous cataracts powerfully surge thousands of feet from granite precipices, spilling into the water. I found this power of nature so exhilarating, that I shed a few tears. From the cascades’ effervescent water splashing in the air, along with rain, I felt invigorated by fresh feelings, cleansing all negative thoughts and emotions.

The tempestuous elements of wind, cold and rain stimulate alertness, engendering a Zen-like focus, fully present, among the invincible power of nature. Not much can top this. The power and ferocious beauty leaves everyone stunned in wide-eyed humility and jaw dropping silence.

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Overall, Cruising New Zealand’s Fiordland

Finally, exiting the granite chambers into the Tasman Sea is one of the most unique moments of my life. One can only imagine the awe Captain Cook and his crew felt when they first set eyes on this rugged, lonely terrain. I truly began to eerily put in perspective the omnipotence of this part of the world, as we sailed away and humbly witnessed its remote majesty fading away into the sea…


Next: Akaroa’s Stunning Attractions on Walking & Boating Tours

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Bye, Bye Fiordland into the Tasman Sea

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