On Italy’s boot heel, Bari still stands as an authentic travel destination.   Bari is famous for the “nonnas” or grandmas making their orecchiette pasta on the street.  However, there’s lots more to experience in Bari.  Read on and discover an itinerary for a Bari Italy old town tour.  I explored all the sites in this tour in one day, all within walking distance.

On the Adriatic Sea in southern Italy lies Bari, the capital city of the Apulia (Puglia) region.  The old town or Bari Vecchia is north on the peninsula between two harbors.  It’s compact and easy to see most historic landmarks on a walking tour. Historic landmarks are here, such as, Via delle Orecchiette, Basilica of Saint Nicholas, Norman-Swabian Castle and Teatro Petruzzeli.  

Bari Italy Old Town Tour Highlights  

Bari’s old town or Bari Vecchia is also known as the San Nicola district.  It lies within the ancient walls on the peninsula between the city’s 2 harbors.  The old town is distinguished from the new city built by Joachim Murat in 1813. 

Bari Vecchia’s Byzantine layout is filled with alleyways and historic landmarks from the 11^th to 17^th centuries.  It remains a place where locals live and intermingle with tourists without feeling crowded.  Beside churches and monuments are family-run businesses, laundry hanging between buildings and neighbors chatting.  Overall, it’s a rare tourist destination that remains authentic without feeling staged.

 Castello Normanno-Svevo (Norman-Swabian Castle)

Built around 1132, the Norman-Swabian Castle is now used for exhibitions.  This moated castle survived many transformations.  The entrance lies on the southern side through the bridge and gate.  Its structure bares mostly Aragon walls and an imposing Hohenstaufen tower.

The castle stands on the outskirts of old town and is a museum for exhibitions and cultural events.  Furthermore, the Aragonese Hall displays a photographic exhibition on the historic restoration of the caste.  The castle is closed on Mondays.

Pasta-making Grandmas
On Strada Arco Basso or Via delle Orecchiette

Across the street from the castle entrance is Via delle Orecchiette.  Here, the famous grandmas or “nonnies” continue their pasta-making tradition.  Alongside the stone-paved street is a narrow passage lined up with tables.  Outside visitors hypnotically watch the grandmas making their orecchiette pasta. 

Orecchiette is a pasta typical of Italy’s Apulia region. The name comes from word for ‘ear’, in reference to their shape.  It’s made with durum wheat and water without eggs.  The shape’s center is thinner than edges with a rough surface that hangs onto sauce.  The grandmas roll the dough and cut into cubes.  Each cube is pressed with a knife and dragged, making it curl.  Then, it’s inverted over the thumb. 

The grandmothers openly demonstrate on tables outside and sell their dry, homemade pasta on the spot.  It’s an intimate look at southern Italy’s famous, culinary tradition. 

Other Barese Culinary Favorites

Beyond orecchiette pasta, Bari is known for other culinary specialties.  Recipes draw from three agricultural products found within the region, such as, wheat, olive oil, and wine.  Also, the fresh seafood is always available.

Bari’s Focaccia Barese is a local favorite found in many bakeries.  Each family passes down recipes from the last generation.  The dough is thick, yet airy and topped with olives, tomatoes, potatoes and olive oil.   Another foodie favorite in Bari is the sgagliozze.  These crispy, fried polenta squares are delicious.  Also, the panzerotti is a fried, half-moon pastry stuffed with mozzarella and tomato. 

Overall, the street food culture is a highlight in Bari Vecchia.  Family-run businesses offer varieties of seafood, sandwiches, focaccia and baked goods. 

Bari Fish Market

Lying on the Adriatic Sea, fresh seafood is popular in Bari.  The lively fish market or “nderr alla lanze” happens every morning behind the Teatro Margherita.  Here, in the Old Harbor the fisherman deliver their fresh catch off the boats.  Most restaurants serve both raw and cooked fish and seafood, all from that day’s catch.

A local favorite is the octopus beating tradition. This spectacle ensures the octopus is soft enough to eat raw.  For some this may be difficult to watch.  However, the fisherman assure that the octopus are dead before beating.  Next, to complete the tradition, don’t forget a Peroni from the El Chiringuito Bar open by 8 am. 

Basilica of Saint Nicholas 

The Basilica of St. Nicholas is an important pilgrimage destination for both the Catholics and Orthodox Christians worldwide.  This Romanesque church was built between 1087 and 1197.  Its crypt houses relics from St. Nicholas, the Patron Saint of Bari.  According to the legend, while passing through the city, St. Nicholas chose Bari to be his burial place.  

On December 6 is St. Nicholas Day, the main feast day.  On this celebration, it’s traditional for the clergy to lower a flask into St. Nicholas’ tomb.  Then, they extract myrrh that exudes from the relics. 

Piazza Mercantile

The Piazza Mercantile is one of the most historic squares in Bari. Historic buildings surround it, such as the Palazzo del Sedile dei Nobili, Pigna fountain, aka 4 faces fountain and column of Justice.

Perhaps, the Column of Justice is the squares most iconic monument.  Built in 1546, this marble column is topped by a ball with a stone lion crouching at the base.  The “Guardian of Justice” is on his chest.  The column was used to punish loan sharks and people who didn’t pay their bills.  The condemned sat on the lion with their hands tied to the column and buttocks up in the air.  They became ostracized for days, while the townspeople harassed them.

In Piazza Mercantile, I enjoyed my dinner at Matiti Pasta Bistrot.  I savored my orecchiette pasta with cauliflower, bacon, cheese and wine. 

Piazza Ferrarese

Overlooking the waterfront, this piazza is an entrance to Bari Vecchia.   The square buzzes with restaurants, bars and shops.  Also, concerts and street performances happen here for live entertainment and nightlife. 

Lungomare Nazario Sauro 

Taking a stroll along the Lungomare Nazario Sauro is the best way to enjoy the Adriatic waterfront.  The palm trees line up along the promenade stretching for 15 km.  Also, many seaside cafes serve local favorites enriching your culinary experience. 

Historic landmarks along the promenade include the Basilica of St. Nicholas, Piazzas Mercantile and Ferrarese and Archeological Museum.

Teatro Petruzzelli 

Built in 1903 by the Petruzzelli family, the Teatro Petruzzelli is the largest theater in Bari.   Inside the neoclassical façade is an opulent interior with red velvet and pure gold.  It offers operas, ballets and concerts.  Famous performers here include Frank Sinatra, Liza Minnelli, Carla Fracci and Piero Cappuccilli. 

Enjoy Bari!

Even among Italian standards, Bari is the ultimate foodie destination.  Alongside the famous pasta-making nonnies, fresh seafood and delicious street food is an intimate old town.  Its old-world charm remains alive with the locals that share it with tourists generously.  If your travels bring you to Bari, please share any tips below in the comments. 

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