South Pacific’s Splendid American Samoa – A Treasure Island

by Trudy Wendelin, L.Ac
American Samoa Attractions

American Samoa is a tropical paradise island in the South Pacific that’s also a U.S. territory.  The author, Robert Louis Stevenson, of Treasure Island lived his last 5 years here.  I spent a day exploring sites, such as, Stevenson’s beautiful estate, beaches, waterfalls and tropical gardens.  So, read on to learn about a suggested itinerary for an American Samoa travel tour on this “Treasure Island.”

“Seaward ho! Hang the treasure! It’s the glory of the sea that has turned my head.” – Robert Louis Stevenson

American Samoa in the South Pacific is an unincorporated territory of the U.S.  It consists of 5 main islands and 2 coral atolls.  Furthermore, the largest and most populous island is Tutuila, with the capital city and port-of-call, Pago Pago.  Also, other islands include Manu’a Islands, Rose Atoll and Swains Island.

Pago Pago is a gateway to the National Park of American Samoa.  Overall, this protects coral reefs, lush rainforests and waters frequented by humpback whales.  For military buffs, Fagatogo Village has the Jean P. Haydon Museum, with artifacts from a U.S. Navy Facility.  Also, in Pago Pago is the Sadie Thompson Inn.  W. Somerset Maugham made this name famous from his short story, Rain, written after visiting the island.  Another iconic landmark here is Mount Alava, at 500 m high with epic views of Pago Pago Harbor. 

Fales or Samoan Thatched Overwater Bungalows
Fale – Samoan Homes on Water

The pristine beaches and shoreline are breathtaking.  Visitors can stay in a Samoan house called a Fale.  Moreover, these overwater bungalows or “Fales” with thatched roofs are the quintessential way to experience the authentic tropical life of this island. 

My American Samoa Travel Tour Stevenson’s Estate, Waterfalls and Gardens

Papapapaitai Falls
Papapapaitai Falls

With only a day, I enjoyed a tour of highlights, such as, the literary giant, Robert Louis Stevenson’s Estate, Papapapaitai Falls, lush rainforests and gardens.  This was an incredible tour for literary buffs, following the theme of discovering Stevenson’s Treasure Island. 

Papapapaitai (Tiavi) Falls

Firstly, we stopped on Cross-Island Road to see the majestic Papapapaitai Falls.  Among lush rainforests, the highest waterfall in Samoa, cascades down 100 m into a deep gorge.  We stopped at a stunning viewpoint, where I also discovered beautiful blue butterflies on Vervain flowers. 

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Robert Louis Stevenson Home - Pago Pago
Vailima – Robert Louis Stevenson’s Estate

Robert Louis Stevenson Museum and Gardens

For my part, I travel not to go anywhere but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.”  – Robert Louis Stevenson

The Robert Louis Stevenson Estate named “Vailima” is a wonderful way to learn about the life of this Scottish literary Giant’s novels, poetry and travel writing.  Robert Louis Stevenson wrote the famous adventure novel, Treasure Island, narrating stories about “buccaneers and buried gold.”  This story inspired legends and stories throughout the last century, especially about the theme of pirates and treasure maps. Also, he wrote KidnappedStrange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde and A Child’s Garden of Verses.

Stevenson and his family left San Francisco in 1888 on their own yacht, the Casco.  For a year they explored the South Pacific. Stevenson had Tuberculosis, so he was also seeking a warm climate for his lungs.  Finally, they settled in American Samoa, building the home on the hills above Apia.

They purchased 127 hectares (314 acres) of pristine land on the slopes of Mout Vaea.


Stevenson’s estate is named Vailima or “Five Waters” after the 5 streams crossing the property.  The estate is surrounded by 30-acres of beautiful botanical gardens, with both ornamental and native flowers and plants. For example, I saw numerous pink and red flowers from various ginger species. 

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Torch Ginger

Their home became restored into a museum to learn about the life and achievements of Stevenson and his family.  Overall, the mansion includes 5 bedrooms, a ballroom, library and the only fireplace in Samoa.  Additionally, a hike goes up to Stevenson’s grave on Mount Vaea with a gorgeous view of Apia Harbor. 

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Overall, American Samoa Tour

This tropical island is a sanctuary for serene landscapes and beautiful beaches and snorkeling. As a writer myself, I enjoyed exploring America Samoa through the lens of the author, Robert Louis Stevenson. Overall, the pristine scenery and culture make up the story for all of us to experience for ourselves.


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