San Juan del Sur is an amicable front door to the exotic Nicaragua. It stands on the edge of a shoreline daring you to explore inland. However, it’s great to feel protected and enjoy the authentic village and simplicity of this port-of-call. With so much to do in this country, San Juan del Sur gives you permission to lighten your itinerary and just enjoy the beaches, restaurants and shopping with minimal crowds. As an Acupuncturist-at-Sea, I enjoyed this port and love sharing my insights about this off the beaten path destination.
Nicaragua, a Biodiversity Hotspot
Nicaragua offers rare opportunities to explore an undeveloped culture, raw and primitive, without modern exploits and crowds. This organically rich country is a biodiversity hotspot, making up 10% of the planet’s biodiversity. It has 7 types of forested lands: subtropical dry forest, tropical rainforest, mangroves, wetlands, grass savannahs and tree savannahs. Nicaragua is home to 78 nature reserves, including the Bosawas Biosphere Reserve, the world’s third largest rainforest.
The name of Nicaragua is derived from “Nicarao,” the largest indigenous tribe when the Spanish arrived and “agua” meaning water. The south has a higher proportion of agua than land. It’s inundated by Lake Nicaragua, the 10th largest freshwater lake in the world. Nicaragua is also called the “country of lakes and volcanoes.” Being amongst the Central American Volcanic Arc, Nicaragua has 19 volcanoes, with 3 being currently active. Lake Nicaragua (home to the world’s only freshwater shark) and Lake Managua are both crater lakes.
Nicaraguan History of Political Unrest
In contradiction to Nicaragua’s rich natural biodiversity, it’s the second “poorest” country (economically) in the western world, in the shadows of Haiti. The strong humility of this ferocious country is embedded with a history of turmoil and political unrest. In 1821, Nicaragua declared independence from Spain, but was occupied by the U.S. from 1909 – 1933. From 1927 – 1979 it was controlled by the dictatorship of the Somoza Dynasty.
In 1978 – 9, the Nicaraguan Revolution divided this country between the Contras vs Sandinista’s (communist-leaning group), leaving 10,000 deaths. This polarization leads to the Nicaraguan Civil War between the FSLN and Contra’s from 1981 -9. This became a proxy war during the cold war, tragically decimating this country with at least 30,000 deaths. Additionally, Nicaragua made headlines in the Reagan Era, when the CIA was selling weapons to Iran. The CIA secretly siphoned money to the Nicaraguan Contras, to support their cause to fight “communism.” This controversy came to light in the 80’s, known as the Iran-Contra Scandal.
San Juan del Sur
The port town, San Juan del Sur, was just a sleepy fishing village. It became a hub during Nicaragua’s gold rush. Now, it’s a popular destination for surfers, expatriates and tourists. The vacation on the Rivas isthmus, between the Pacific Ocean and Lake Nicaragua. It has the comfortable amenities of excellent restaurants, spas and motels embedded in this laid-back paradisiacal cove. Even though it offers these modern-day conveniences, there’s still an unexploited, sincere charm. This welcomes visitors with a refreshing humility and relaxing atmosphere.
San Juan del Sur – A Rio de Janeiro Light
San Juan del Sur is a great start to exploring Nicaragua. It greets you with open arms that are comforting, humble and wise. I have little expectations before arriving, with no research to prepare for my day here. I arrive while working for a cruise ship’s spa as their Acupuncturist. As we approach San Juan on the tender, the refreshing winds invigorate me to awaken to the intriguing coastline before me. The crescent-shaped harbor, engulfed by precipitous sea cliffs, seems to embrace and protect us from the interior shadows of this country’s political unrest.
Landing ashore, I immediately notice the Christ of Mercy Statue, standing like a guardian over the harbor, 134 meters above the shores upon a sea cliff. I am struck by a first impression, hmmm a “Rio de Janeiro Light” with the precipitous rise of mountains closely hugging the shoreline and the Christ statue overseeing the harbor from above.
“Christ the Redeemer” on Mt. Corovado
It’s interesting to consider San Juan del Sur as a Rio de Janeiro Light. Rio’s Mt. Corcovado, the pedestal for “Christ the Redeemer,” reaches an elevation of 700 meters, with the world’s largest art deco statue standing 39.6 meters tall. San Juan’s more humble seacliffs rise to approx. 130 meters in height, with the Christ of Mercy Statue standing 24 meters. Secondly, the population of Rio is approximately 6 million, while San Juan is home to about 18,000 people; so inevitably the mood is a lot more laid back in this charming Nicaraguan port.
Welcomed by vibrant, colorful displays of authentic handicrafts, I find treasures along with T-shirts and tacky souvenirs. I take in the spectral delight of colors from beautifully-woven, handmade textiles, loving this vivid cultural given in Latin America. What a refreshing surprise! This is going to be a special day in San Juan del Sur.
Beaches of San Juan del Sur
I stroll, alone, along the beach observing the restaurants and shops, reading over the menus posted outside, planning for the best lunch experience that will be both tasty and ambient. The ambiance part would be easy, because most restaurants along the harbor face the harbor, with decks wide open to the sea air. After walking for about 15 minutes, I come to the last restaurant on the beach, furthest from the ship. The menu and venue have what I am craving: pasta with pesto, along with the ideal deck taking in the beautiful air and views. I decide to return here for lunch later.
My plan is to continue along the crescent-shaped beach, hugged by seacliffs, to an area below the Christ Statue on the north end of the beach. I find a path that takes me toward some boulders below the statue. There are few people in this part of the beach, since it is residential in front of condominiums and large houses. I walk in solitude in the wake of peaceful silence with only my breath and the tide whispering in my ears. It’s beginning to get more humid and hotter with the strengthening sun, but the refreshing breeze inspires me to keep going. I put on my sun hat and pursue toward the rocks.
“This is exactly what I need to recharge my body, mind & soul.”
Reaching my destination, I crawl upon the boulder, that is smooth and flat on top, so I can lay comfortably and just take in the breeze. The Christ Statue stands right above me like a guardian. I feel strangely alone, yet peaceful and safe. I immerse myself into the moments here in solitude with the ocean, breeze, rocks and sun. Ahh, I harmonize with the elements of nature, and hang out awhile to just be…my intuition guided me here for a reason. This is exactly what I need to recharge my body, mind and soul…
In the distance I can see the cruise ship, but the people on the beach were mere dots with no distinguishable characteristics. The turquoise bay is colorfully interspersed with fishing boats and sailboats, lingering on the water… My intense lifestyle on the cruise ship seems like a distant, surreal dream. These moments alone on the rocks fill me up with peaceful joy, as the winds seem to blow away all my stress and negativity. After about a half hour, the sun begins to overwhelm me, and I reluctantly pull myself away from my sacred space.
Restaurants Along Beach in San Juan del Sur
I wander back to the deck of the restaurant chosen earlier. I notice 3 crewmembers from the ship at a table. This disappoints me because I feel like recharging on my own but know it would be embarrassingly asocial to avoid them, so I join their table. They frantically use their I-phones, so I end up getting quasi-solitude. Ahhhh, the breeze and open-air scenery of the harbor along with the cold, tasty beer and pasta with pesto refreshes my senses and mind. I just love the vibe of this place with so much charm and beauty, sustaining its relaxing mood, even with tourists and expatriates.
After indulging in the restaurant’s food and panoramic setting, I saunter around the town just taking it in. This is a hub for many young people, as I observe at least 6 youth hostels. I walk by a yoga center and various health spas that include acupuncture. Like the town, these businesses remain charming all-in harmony with the beautiful harbor. There is an overall bohemian feeling to the town. I wander by artisan centers, handicraft stores, restaurants, bars and spas, yet it all remains unpretentious and simple.
Overall, San Juan del Sur
I returned to this port another time to enjoy it again for its natural beauty and relaxing atmosphere. Sure, this port offers a plethora of activities, such as, sailing, fishing, whale-watching, snorkeling, zip-lining, and on and on. But for me, the vibe of this charming little town makes me just want to toss my itinerary into its breezy harbor and breathe in the moment, doing the fine art of nothing.
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