Mostar is a gorgeous gem of the Balkans. Its unique blend of cultural diversity, riveting history and natural beauty offers an inspiring escape. I traveled solo in Mostar for 2 days, exploring the Old Town. Also, I enjoyed a day trip to Blagaj Dervish Monastery, Kravice Falls and Počitelj. Read on to discover Mostar tour highlights and why you should visit.
First, to truly enjoy Mostar you must somewhat understand its complex and turbulent history. So, I compiled the information below to know for myself and the reader.
Mostar’s Background & History
In the southern region of the country, Mostar is the historic capital of Herzegovina. It lies 125 km (78 m) southwest of the country’s capital, Sarajevo. The city lies in a valley on the Neretva River surrounded by the Dinaric Alps. Its climate is Transitional Mediterranean with cooler winters and hot summers. Overall, it gets about 1,500 ml (60 inches) of rain per year, with July and August being the driest months.
Mostar became named after the bridge keepers (mostari) that guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva during the Ottoman rule Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Suleiman the Magnificent commissioned the bridge in the 16th century. As an iconic treasure of Islamic architecture, the bridge is one of the most important landmarks in the country.
Between the Adriatic and mainland, Mostar became an administrative center for the Turks on the Trade Route.
After many years under the Ottoman Empire, the city and country became part of the Hapsburg Empire until its collapse in 1918. Then, it became incorporated into the Kingdom of Yugoslavia until WW II. Post WW II, Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) changed to the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, until the Bosnian Wars broke out in the 1990’s.
In the 90’s after Slovenia and Croatian declared independence from Yugoslavia, large splits developed in BiH. The Serbs wanted to remain within Yugoslavia. However, the Muslims and Croats favored independence.
Since the Balkan War in the 90’s, Mostar remained divided between the Bosniaks and Croats on each side of the river. In ’93 the Croat-Bosniak War escalated. The western side became dominated by Croatian Defense Council (HVO) and eastern side by the Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina (ARBiH). Later this war combined with the Bosnian War with Serb forces against the Bosniaks and Croatians. Overall, these 2 wars devasted Mostar with about 2,000 deaths.
Finally, the Washington Agreement in ’94 ended the Croat-Bosniak conflict. Also, the Dayton Agreement in ’95 ended the Bosnian War.
Getting to Mostar
Located in southwestern part of Herzegovina, Mostar is easily accessible from Sarajevo or Split. The vintage, communist Talgo train between Sarajevo and Mostar runs in morning and late afternoon. Check times at Bosnian Railways. It’s world famous for its scenic route. FlixBus goes several times a day between the 2 cities.
Another more flexible option, FlixBus goes between Split, Sarajevo and Mostar. The train and buses run from the same stations in both Sarajevo and Mostar. Also, the Mostar International Airport offers flights.
Mostar Tour Highlights
Old Bazaar or Kujundžiluk Highlights
The Old Bazaar or Kujundziluk still maintains its old-world charm from the 16th century. Along the river, the cobblestone alleyways wind through over 500 shops. It lies on both sides of the Old Bridge, filled with restaurants, cafes and shops.
Stari Most (Old Bridge)
The iconic Stari Most is the symbol of Mostar and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in Balkan Islamic architecture in the 16th century, its height is 24 m (78 ft 9 in). The bridge connects the two sides of the city divided by the Neretva River. During the Balkan War, the bridge was destroyed. However, it became rebuilt in 2004 with the stones from the original bridge. The bridge is steep and slippery with crowds often on it. So, wear good shoes and be aware when taking in its incredible views of the city and river.
The main attraction in Mostar is watching the tradition of locals jumping off the Stari Most into the river. This began in 1664 as a rite-of-passage for 16-year-old boys. Today, young men from the Mostar Diving Club take the plunge. Leading up to the plunge, assistants gather donations from the crowds.
Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque Minaret Viewing Platform
During the Ottoman rule, the Koski Mehmed-pasha Mosque was built in 1618. As a stunning example of Ottoman architecture, the mosque towers on the banks of the river with a 30-meter-high minaret. Climbing the minaret is a challenge with tight, steep, spiral stairs. However, the rewarding, 360-degree panoramic views are more than worth it.
The minaret offers one of the best views of the Old Bridge and Old Town in the city. Also, as an important landmark, explorers see the mosque from anywhere in the city. Overall, it’s an important symbol in Herzegovina for the Islamic identity.
Crooked Bridge (Kriva ćuprija)
Straddling the Radobolja River stands the Crooked Bridge just 30 m west of the Old Bridge. With one stone arch, this Ottoman-style bridge is a miniature of the iconic Stari Most. It was built in 1558, 8 years prior to the Old Bridge.
Taste Mostar – A Foodie Destination
Mostar is a foodie destination with views. With its cultural diversity, blending Turkish and European influences, the food choices are incredible. Here are popular dishes and drinks to get your mouth watering. The restaurants along the banks of the river provide incredible outdoor seating with views of the river and Old Bridge. I enjoyed the Italian food and views from Restoran Labirint.
My favorite is Burek, the ultimate street food when you want a quick meal or snack. It’s a stuffed pie made with filo dough and filled with meats, spinach, cheese or potatoes. The burek is rolled into a spiral and sliced into portions. I found a fantastic restaurant with fresh out of the oven burek at Sac in old town.
Bosnian Coffee is very similar to Turkish. The unfiltered coffee is served in a džezva, a small copper pot with a high neck and long handle.
Klepe or “Bosnian ravioli” is a dumpling prepared using soft dough and stuffed with minced beef, lamb or cheese and spices. It’s usually dished with garlic sauce or yoghurt. Lepinja is a type of Balkan flatbread with just three ingredients: salt, flour, and water. It’s made with minced meat and baked at high temperatures, giving a golden-brown crust.
My hostel in Sarajevo welcomed me with a free shot of Rakia, a fruit spirit or brandy. Its fermented fruits are usually plums or grapes with a 40% alcohol content. This drink is popular throughout the Balkans.
War Photo Exhibition
The War Photo Exhibition features 50 raw photographs taken by Wade Goddard, a New Zealand photojournalist. The photos show the traumatic reality from the conflict that terrorized Mostar in 1993. This offers a chance for all of us to learn about how much these locals suffered. Perhaps, then we all can appreciate even more the beauty in Mostar and the resilience of its people. This exhibit is in the western Old Bridge tower above the Bridge Divers Club.
Sniper Building and War Remnants
The Old Town is charmingly light years away from the stark reality suffered during the wars in the ‘90’s. However, just a couple blocks from the tourist areas, remnants from the war are scattered throughout the city.
I noticed random buildings that looked charred and vacant, as a ruin or remnant from the past. Also, in alleyways many walls say: “Don’t forget ‘’93.”
Near the university along Alekse Šantića Street stands the abandoned Sniper Building, a former bank. I asked a local where the “Sniper Building” was located. His reply was: “Which one?” I thought that was telling. This stark concrete structure is painted with meaningful and colorful graffiti. It serves as a creative testament to not forget ’93.
Bruce Lee Statue
Across from the Sniper Building in the Park Zrinjevac is the Bruce Lee statue. I wandered in this park and didn’t know about this then. So sorry to miss it. Evidently, it was created in 2005 and was the first Bruce Lee statue in the world. The famous one in Hong Kong was finished soon after.
Gymnasium
The Gymnasium is one of the most historic buildings in Mostar, looking similar to the Vijencica or Town Hall in Sarajevo. It was built in 1902 in a Moorish Revival Style to promote the Bosnian national identity. The Gymnasium is across the street from the Sniper Building next to Park Zrinjevac.
Mostar Tour Highlights Day Trips
I took a half-day trip with Shams Travel in a shuttle with 4 other people. The tour included all transportation, entrance fees and tour information. Meeting at 11 am in Mostar, we visited Blagaj Dervish Monastery, Kravice Falls and Pocitelj.
Blagaj Dervish Monastery
Just 15 minutes from Mostar is the Blagaj Dervish Monastery. It sits at the source of the Buna River which flows out of a cave beneath a canyon wall. The beautiful tekke (lodge) displays Ottoman Sufi architecture from the 15th century.
The white building reflects on the turquoise river. Inside you’ll find a small mosque, guest rooms and mausoleums. Dervishes of the Sufi orders stayed here for spiritual retreats over the centuries. Today, it is open for tourist of all faiths to learn about this sacred site and the Sufi tradition.
We explored the riverside and view of Blagaj from across the river. Also, with our shoes off, we enjoyed an indoor tour of the monastery.
Kravice Waterfalls
Just 40 km (25 mi) south of Mostar is the gorgeous Kravice Waterfalls. Many stairs take you down to the falls. The cascades plunge more than 25 m into the Trebizat River. The water is calm in the summer months with many people safely swimming. Also, there are small boats to enjoy the sanctuary. You can make a full day of it, with 3 restaurants and a bar near the river.
Počitelj
About 30 km (19 mi) south of Mostar is the settlement, Pocitelj built in the Middle Ages. This open-air museum is located in the town Caplijina on the left bank of the River Neretva. The center of the village is in a natural karst amphitheater. The Ottoman Empire ruled the village from the 15th century until conquered by the Habsburgs in 1878.
The town lost its strategic role, so it remains in its original form to this day. However, during the Bosnian Wars the bombing destroyed much of the Islamic art and architecture. Even worse, a large part of the town’s population became ethnically cleansed.
Enjoy Mostar!
Mostar is such a unique destination filled with cultural diversity, rich history and natural beauty. The Old Town is compact and fun to explore afoot. And there are numerous tour companies taking tourists on daytrips with fantastic sites nearby. If your travels bring you to Mostar, please share any tips below in the comments.
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