In Dublin great Irish literature and Guinness go hand in hand. Every corner there’s either a literature plaque or pub. And the Guinness Brewery is the ultimate mecca, where many tourists end the day. As one of the world’s great literary cities, along with its pub culture, Dublin exudes intelligence, without pretention. You sense the ghosts of literary giants, such as, Oscar Wilde and James Joyce throughout the streets and pubs.
After visiting Dublin twenty years ago and again just recently as my port-of-call, I love reliving my memories. Enjoying it even more years later, my walking tour recounts literary activities, such as, the Dublin Writer’s Museum, the James Joyce Centre, Merrion Square, Trinity College, the Book of Kells and Dublin Castle. And last but not least ending the day at the Guinness Storehouse for not only some beer, but also the best view of the city.
Dublin Culture and History
On Ireland’s east coast, this capital city sits on Dublin Bay, at the mouth of River Liffey. It’s bordered on the south by the Dublin Mountains. Also, Dublin is one of the top UNESCO Cities of Literature. Furthermore, it was home to 4 Nobel Prize winners: Yeats, Beckett, Shaw and Heaney. Dublin is also, distinguished by the renowned Trinity College, along with numerous book festivals and Bloomsday. This bookish culture inspires anyone who visits to see a play or read a book to learn about the Muse that inspired these Irish writers and culture.
The Pub Culture of Dublin is legendary with more than 1000 pubs. Also, don’t miss out on the oldest pub in Dublin, The Brazen Head. And then there’s the iconic Guinness Brewery for visitors to taste and learn about this popular pint made here since 1759.
Merrion Square – Starting Point for Walking Tour
Recently, I enjoyed a full day and night walking tour, including everything mentioned here. ( except Trinity college and the Abbey Theatre visited years before) Dublin is a wonderful walking city, with many popular sites near each other. Walking is the best way to connect with the true tempo of a city in an authentic way. Overall, Dublin is a paradise for the peripatetic, such as myself, imagining while walking as you take in this literary haven and pub culture.
“Whenever people agree with me, I know I must be wrong.”
– Oscar Wilde
I started my day at this central green space, that’s one of the most popular squares in Dublin. It’s lined by Georgian redbrick townhouses and next to the Natural History Museum.
The Oscar Wilde Memorial Sculpture stands here, commemorating the famous Irish poet and playwright. It has him dressed up like a dandy in pink and green on a rock, expressing his flamboyant personality. Also, there are other statues with classic, witty Wilde quotes displayed.
Trinity College and the Book of Kells
Near Merrion Square is the Trinity College, housing the famous Book of Kells (800 CE) and the Long Room, renowned for being the most beautiful library in the world. This is the most popular tourist attraction in Dublin. I highly recommend purchasing tickets online beforehand or be prepared to wait in a long queue. Years ago, I took the time to savor this important and beautiful manuscript. The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript of the 4 gospels in Latin of the Christian New Testament. It’s famous for the ornamental detail of exquisite western calligraphy. Also, it’s named after the Kells Monastery, where it stayed for years.
James Joyce Statue and Centre
When I die Dublin will be written in my heart. – James Joyce
On North Earl Street, I walked by the brass James Joyce Statue. Although he spent much of his life abroad, he prolifically wrote about the city of his birth. Dublin is the setting for both Dubliners (collection of short stories) and his epic novel, Ulysses.
Ulysses chronicles an ordinary day of Leopold Bloom in Dublin, written in a stream-of-consciousness flow about 1 day on June 16, 1904. The storyline establishes a parallel between the classic Homer’s epic poem Odyssey (Ulysses is Latin version) and the protagonist, Leopold Bloom.
Thus, the James Joyce novel, Ulysses is the inspiration for Dublin’s famous festival, Bloomsday (June 16) and week, commemorating this brilliant piece of literature.
In addition, the James Joyce Centre is near O’Connell Street in a Georgian townhouse. This museum provides an understanding of the life and works of James Joyce through exhibits and workshops. It also provides walking tours to dive into the peripatetic path on the fictional Bloomsday.
Dublin Writers Museum – Literary Dublin and Guinness Brewery
On my recent visit to Dublin, I walked from Merrion Square past Trinity College, observing the James Joyce Statue. Across the street form the Writer’s Museum, I observed the Gardens of Remembrance, that’s “Dedicated to those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish freedom.” It’s a nice way to take a pause and connect with the history of the blood, sweat and tears that made this city what it is today.
On Parnell Square is the Dublin Writers Museum in an original 18th century brick home. Overall, it commemorates the famous Irish writers, such as, the Poet W.B. Yeats, Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, Bram Stoker (Dracula), George Bernard Shaw, Patrick Swift and Samuel Beckett. It houses a collection of manuscripts, memorabilia and portraits of these literary giants. Also, it houses a replica of the famous Book of Kells. Because the museum links with the Irish Writers’ Centre, it also is relevant to current writers and the international writing scene.
See a Play at the Iconic Abbey Theatre
The historical Abbey Theatre was closely associated with the writers of the Irish Literary Revival, many of whom were involved in its founding and most of whom had plays staged there. The Abbey served as a creative platform for many of leading Irish playwrights. It was founded by W. B. Yeats and Lady Gregory. Gates Theatre is another venue for genuine Irish plays.
Dublin Castle
Also, within walking distance from Merrion Square is the historical landmark, Dublin Castle. Erected in the early 13th century, it was both a Viking Settlement as and headquarters for the British. In 1922, following Irish independence this castle became the monument for the new Irish government. Its Medieval Tower is one of the oldest in Ireland, and still intact with walls up to 4.8 meters thick. There are tours available to see the State Apartments, Chapel Royal and gardens. My favorite was the gardens through Celtic-spiraled gates adorned with colorful flowers and sculptures.
Guinness Storehouse – Literary Dublin and Guinness Brewery
Visiting the iconic Guinness Brewery and Storehouse is a fun way to learn and experience the history and essence of Dublin’s trademark beer. There’s even a restaurant featuring Guinness-inspired food pairings. And don’t miss out on your free pint in the Gravity Bar. On the top floor with massive windows, it provides one of the best panoramic views of Dublin.
I ended my Guinness Brewery experience at the Gravity Bar, where I met fun people in a Guinness-buzzed social frenzy. It’s chock full of tourists from around the world savoring their pint(s) and conversations with each other. Truly, a perfect place to give a full on Cheers to Dublin and its golden elixir, Guinness!
Finally, the Brazen Head Pub is famed for being the oldest pub in Dublin, dating back to 1198! This Irish landmark was the meeting place for both political and literary revolutions. During my last visit to Dublin, I met some friends from Australia at the Guinness Gravity Bar. Later, together we walked for dinner at the nearby Brazen Head Pub. It was crowded and good Irish fun with awesome fish-n-chips and, of course, more Guinness!
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Overall, Literary Dublin and Guinness Brewery
Out of all the cities in the world, UNESCO named 39 cities as Cities of Literature, and Dublin is one of them. Think about that. In the modern world, written communication is fading into a distracted whirlwind of abbreviated social media. Many individuals cannot even take the time and focus to read a book, let alone an entire article. Writing and reading material in depth is an intellectual endeavor that helps define and expand our outlooks on life. It’s as an intelligence, that transcends any social media or sound byte. Dublin reminds us of this. Therefore, a visit to Dublin brings some fresh literary inspiration and good cheer with a pint! Finally, I close with my favorite poem from Yeats, that opened my mind to his creative, Irish genius:
“Had I the heavens’ embroidered cloths,
Enwrought with golden and silver light,
The blue and the dim and the dark cloths
Of night and light and the half light,
I would spread the cloths under your feet:
But I, being poor, have only my dreams;
I have spread my dreams under your feet;
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.”W.B. Yeats
