Isle of Skye’s Portree Bay and Scenic Walks

by Trudy Wendelin, L.Ac
Isle de Skye Scotland

Isle of Skye’s Portree Bay is a paradise for scenic walking trails.  I walked the Scorrybreac Cirque, starting in Portree.  During my wonderful day at this port-of-call, I explored the village and this trail.  Truly, one of the best days of my life, taking in the lush green countryside alongside, the refreshing breeze from the Atlantic Ocean. 

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This island is the largest and northernmost of the Inner Hebrides of Scotland archipelago.  Skye Bridge links Skye to the mainland.  The island is immortalized by The Skye Boat Song. The Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf Stream create a mild and wet climate with a lot of wind.  Its rugged landscapes portray a jagged coast with peninsulas and lochs, emanating from a mountainous interior.  Also, it’s known for quaint fishing villages, medieval castles and lush green countryside. 

In comparison to the east coast, the west is windier, therefore, grows less vegetation. The “muirs” are covered with mostly heather, an evergreen shrub growing together to form a thick, bushy purple carpet.  This helps the heather moorlands survive the high winds.  Other plants also flourish, such as, bracken and crowberry.

 Isle of Skye’s Portree

Portree is the capital city and biggest hub for tourism on the island. It lays on the east coast of Skye on the sheltered Portree Bay.  A fishing village and hills surround it, such as, Ben Tianavaig to the south and Suidh Fhinn or Fingal’s Seat to the west, both about 1000 ft.  Across the bay, the Island of Raasay stands out with its conical hill.

A popular walk is the Old Man of Storr north along the road to Staffin. The ‘Old Man’ is a large pinnacle rock, standing high.  As one of the most photographed landscapes of the world, the walk is 3.8 km long and medium level. Unfortunately, I missed this trail, but hope to catch it next time.

Scorrybreac Circuit – Isle of Skye’s Portree Bay

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My day at Portree Bay was divine.  It was a partly cloudy summer day with no wind.  When I disembarked from my cruise ship, where I worked as an Acupuncturist-at-Sea, I walked straight for the Scorrybreac Circuit Trail.  Not that I knew that per se.  All I knew is that the coastal beauty called me to explore it.  I actually by happenstance walked by the signs pointing me to the trail.

First, I walked through Portree by the colorful buildings and up the steep hill by the villages’ boutiques, stores and pubs.  At Scorrybreac Road I took the first right turn, following the trail by instinct.  I felt compelled to see how far this trail took me.  Further on, I walked through a wooded area past a park with wonderful views of the harbor and my ship.

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Scorrybreac trail is a 2-mile, moderate level loop.

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It’s a splendid path through the heather moors along the shore to connect with the wildflowers, vast green landscapes and the ocean breeze.   Its scenery is absolutely stunning. ‘Scorrybreac is named after a small ruined village near Portree.  However, now Scorrybreac is known as the headland passed during the walk.  Even though this trail loops inland a bit, I stayed on the coastal trails the whole time.  I followed the main path until seeing ‘Black Rock’ aka Ben Tianavaig (mountain) and a grey sandy beach.  Further on, I walked between a steep bank with overhanging hazel trees through a canopy tunnel.  Then I reached where the black rock juts out. 

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Continuing on I rested and ruminated on benches and took photos, turning left around the headland.  I then entered the path through the wooden kissing gate with signs as a compass. 

From, here I just meandered and explored the flora and dramatic scenery along the coast. I didn’t complete the trail, as I wanted to just connect with the shoreline.  After 3 hours, it was difficult to pull myself away and go back to my ship.

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Overall, Isle of Skye’s Portree Bay

After a day walking the moorland, there’s traditional pubs and cafes to complete the day.  Portree is a wonderful hub from which to explore this romantic isle that is the muse for songs, poems and novels.  To simple be on this isle, is to live your own story or song. 


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