Scotland Travel Destinations

The ancient and maritime charm of Lerwick is a welcoming gateway to Shetland Islands’ magic. I spent one day on an independent walking tour, absorbing the intriguing landscapes and historic culture here.  So, read on to learn about what to do tour-free, while walking to the Knab coastline, lodberries, Broch of Clickimin and Town Center.

About Lerwick, Shetland Islands

The Shetland Islands are a subarctic archipelago in the Northern Isles of Scotland.   The Atlantic Ocean lies to the west and the North Sea to the east of Shetland. 

Just 16 of about 100 islands are inhabited. Its landscapes dramatically vary in form, such as, rocky crags, lofty sea-cliffs, fertile farmlands, pebble beaches, heather moors and sand dunes. Even though the Shetlands are part of UK, their roots also connect with Old Norse.  The Norse heritage shows in their archeological sites, culture and unique dialect using Old Norse.  Also, Shetland is home to the iconic Shetland ponies, with their short legs and heavy fur.

Lerwick is the capital with a population of about 7,000 on the main island. It’s sheltered from the south-westerly gales by Bressay Island across the sound. Lerwick means ‘muddy waters’ in Old Norse. In the 1700’s it was the unofficial marketplace for the Dutch herring fishing fleets and smuggling days.

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Commercial Street and the Lodberries

First, from Victoria Pier I headed south along Commercial Street.  This is the main street for shopping and eating.  However, I left the town center for later, heading straight to the Knab coastal walk.  

Pleasantly surprised, firstly I discovered the lodberries. These landmark buildings symbolize the Lerwick waterfront.  This Old Norse term means ‘landing rocks.’  Since the 18^th century these private wharves are where merchants transferred items to and from boats or vessels. 

These notorious buildings are known for being a hub for the Lerwick smuggling days. Some houses connected underground tunnels to the lodberries to avoid taxes for goods, such as, alcohol, tea and tobacco. Today, the lodberries are known as the setting for a BBC detective series called Shetland. Additionally, next to the lodberries is Baines Beach.

Knab Lerwick Coastal Walk

I continued on from the Commercial Street south past the lodberries to the Knab Lerwick coastal walk.  I leisurely enjoyed walking, sitting and daydreaming on the breezy precipices among the heather moorlands and harbor.  It was a magical day, enjoying my solitude with no schedule, just going with the flow…

Also, I walked by these boat-roofed houses.  Cleverly, these boats serve their purpose at sea or as a roof to keep the water out.  Plus, I enjoyed bird-watching for endemic species, such as puffins, curlews, red-throated divers and northern gannets. 

Da Sletts Pier

Between the Ayre of Breiwick and Ayre of Clickimin is Da Sletts (Norse meaning a level place).  Here, a large area of rock extends into the sea along the shore. It is a flat and even rock platform that appears almost manmade.  Over the years, Da Sletts served as commercial and leisure pier to load and unload goods. 

Broch of Chlickimin and Shetland Ponies

A broch is a drystone roundhouse from the Iron Age in Scotland. Mysteriously, historians don’t know for sure what their purpose was. Clickimin Broch is situated on the south shore of the Clickimin Loch, about 1 mile south-west of Lerwick. Mysteriously, it sits on a small promontory jutting into the loch.  Overall, this is one of the most well-preserved broch sites in Shetland.

It’s encased by a stone-walled fort consisting of a blockhouse and ringwork.  The blockhouse is a free-standing drystone gateway set just within the entrance to the fort.  I found these ruins gorgeous and intriguingly harmonious with the heather moorlands and loch.  Consequently, the stonework seemed to organically grow from the land like a tree or rock.  Overall, I felt the deep history penetrate my bones here. 

Afterwards, I pet the Shetland ponies in a fenced grassland next to the ruin.  Even though touristy fanfare surrounded them, I got a glimpse of the ponies in their natural element. 

Lerwick Town Center

Walking along Commercial Street takes you to the heart of Lerwick for shopping and cafes.  The sandstone buildings line up creating a labyrinth with narrow passages and stairways.  Tunnels lie beneath Commercial Street, left over from the Dutch smuggling days. 

Fort Charlotte entrance is on the corner of Charlotte and Commercial Street, guarding the harbor since 1665.  It’s a pentagon-shaped fort that protected Shetland from the Dutch attack in the Third Anglo-Dutch War.  The fort is free admission and provides breathtaking views of the harbor and town. 

Up the hill on Charlotte Street is the iconic Town Hall made from sandstone.  It’s known for the stained-glass windows, depicting Shetland’s history and prominent clock tower.  The Town Hall is only open Monday – Friday.  On the northern waterfront of the Town Center is the historic Hay’s Dock area.  This was the heart of the herring industry, where fish were cleaned and packed.  Today, in this area stands the Shetland Museum & Archives and Mareel Art Center. 

Enjoy Lerwick!

Lerwick is the perfect gateway to the Shetland Islands. The dramatic landscapes, along with the ocean, ruins and history make for the best day. And, most importantly, visitors can see everything on their own as a walking tour. Walking helps to slow down and connect with the flow and essence of this unique destination. Also, if your travels bring you here, please share comments on how to make the most of your day in Lerwick!

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