Nestled in the high desert of northcentral Oregon is the stunning John Day Fossil Bed National Monument. This geological gem is a unique area where ancient volcanoes designed a kaleidoscope of landscapes and fossil beds. Because this treasure is a bit remote and less well known, I enjoyed this monument with minimal crowds and it’s all free. The best way to really see everything is through the numerous hiking trails. So, read on to discover the John Day Monument highlights and guide. Also, discover why it’s known as one of the Seven Wonders of Oregon.
John Day Fossil Bed National Monument is divided into 3 units: Clarno, Sheep Rock and Painted Hills. They are on a highway loop about 90 miles northeast of Bend. We started early from Bend and enjoyed Smith Rock State Park and continued that day to see the Clarno and Sheep Rock units. We spent the night in Mitchell, the Gateway to Painted Hills. Then, we woke early to hike the trails in the Painted Hills. I am super glad that we saw all 3 units. However, if I was short on time, I would prioritize the Painted Hills, then Sheep Rock and Clarno in that order.
To see all the units requires planning to fit them all in because each unit is 1-2 hours apart. Distances & Driving Time Between Park Units: Clarno Unit to Sheep Rock Unit – 81 mi. (2 hours); Sheep Rock to Painted Hills – 45 mi. (1 hour); Painted Hills Unit to Clarno Unit – 75 mi. (1 hour 30 minutes)
Weather & Accommodations
This is the semi-arid high desert, so expect high temperatures in the summer getting over 100 degrees F. The winters are milder with occasional snow. We explored end of May with rain in the lower 50’s. However, this was unusual as the locals said it was in the 100’s at the same time a year ago. So, check the weather forecast and plan accordingly.
Accommodations and Food Tips: Mitchell is the “Gateway to Painted Hills” and a great stop for lodging, gas or food. I loved our stay at the charming, vintage The Oregon Hotel with wild west design taking you back in time. Then, I walked down the road to the Tiger Town Brewery Co. for their homebrewed IPA and fresh Greek chicken salad. They even have vegetarian chicken strips.
Check out my YouTube Video:
John Day Monument Highlights & Guide
Painted Hills, Sheep Rock and Clarno Units
Painted Hills Unit
The Painted Hills area is one of the Seven Wonders of Oregon and a geological marvel. They were created by ash from volcanic eruptions in the Cascades over 35 million years ago. Over time, the palette of red, gold, tan and black painted the hills. These colors evolved from oxidation of ash and a sequence of climate changes. Later, the ash wore into claystone. The best way to see the hills is through 4 picturesque trails:
Painted Hills Overlook Trail is .4-mile roundtrip and mostly level on an old road.
Carroll Rim Trail is 1.6-mile roundtrip trail and climbs over 400 feet. It provides the best overall panorama of the hills.
Painted Cove Trail is .25-mile roundtrip on a boardwalk up close to the rusty red (from iron) and golden hills.
Leaf Hill Trail is .25-mile roundtrip and takes you to hills researched by paleontologists. This seemingly ordinary hill is abundant with fossilized remnants of plants.
Sheep Rock Unit
This unit is named after the Big Horn sheep that used to reside here. The enchanting landscape here is a spectrum of volcanic ash worn into blue-green claystone. The Blue Basin Trailhead offers 2 incredible trails to observe the full splendor of the land formations.
Island in Time Trail is a 1.3-mile path into the blue-green landscapes. Even the claystone turned the creek water the same color. Along the way are vertebrae fossils with interpretive signs.
Blue Basin Overlook Trail is a 3.25-mile loop to a wonderful panorama overlooking the John Day River Valley. It is moderate to strenuous with over 600-foot elevation gain.
Also, at the Sheep Rock unit is the Thomas Condon Paleontology Center with a .25-mile overlook trail. At the southern entrance, Highway 26 goes through the dramatic Picture Gorge, with 17 layers of flood basalts. The Mascall Formation Overlook offers incredible views of the Picture Gorge and John Day Valley.
Clarno Unit
This unique area is known for its Palisades from volcanic Lohars or mudflows. Overall, fossils include extinct animals and more than 173 species of plant life.
Clarno Arch Trail is .25-mile roundtrip to a natural arch eroded from a cliff.
Trail of Fossils is a .25-mile loop, that is the only trail in the park where you can see a fossil. I saw the leaf fossil on a boulder.
Geologic Time Trail is .25-mile with signs noting events over 50 million years, with each foot representing 37,000.
Overall, John Day Monument Highlights
I recommend seeing all three units of the monument, but that requires planning. It is possible to see them all in one day, but you’d need an early start. Once again, if you are short on time, I would prioritize Painted Hill, then the Sheep Rock and Clarno Units. And the best thing about it all is it’s free with minimal crowds because it is remote. And plan for some hiking because that is the best way to really immerse yourself in the stunning landscapes and see the fossils.
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